Carpet repairs
Patch repairs use a matching off-cut (ideally the original off-cut you kept, or a current stock match), cut to size with a sharp knife and bonded with seam tape and a heat iron. Power re-stretching uses a knee-kicker and stretcher to take ripples out of a sound carpet. Stair re-fits replace grippers and re-cut the carpet into the new gripper. Most domestic carpet repairs are a half-day job.
Laminate and engineered wood
Click laminate can be partially dismantled from the nearest wall to reach damaged planks, which are then replaced and the floor re-clicked back together. Where the swollen plank can't be removed (glued joints, herringbone) we cut it out, level the area and bond a replacement plank in place. Where the source of moisture hasn't been fixed, repair is pointless, we identify the leak first.
LVT repairs
Glue-down LVT planks are scored along the joint, lifted with heat, residual adhesive scraped, sub-floor cleaned and re-primed, then a new plank bonded in. Click LVT can be lifted from the nearest wall and re-laid. Done well, an LVT plank replacement is almost invisible.
Sheet vinyl repairs
Cuts, tears and burns are patched by cutting a clean square out around the damage, fitting a matching off-cut to the exact size, and either cold-jointing or hot-welding it to the surrounding floor. Hot-welded repairs on commercial safety vinyl are near-invisible. Cold-jointed domestic repairs are functional and visible.
Sub-floor levelling and remediation
Where the visible problem is actually a sub-floor issue, dipped concrete, rotted boards, residual moisture, we address the sub-floor first. Latex screed for concrete, ply over-boarding for timber, moisture treatment for damp screeds. Repairing the visible floor without fixing the sub-floor is wasted money.